Does mulching grass clippings into the lawn increase the build-up of thatch?
Most homeowners bag lawn clippings because they think that the clippings add to the buildup of thatch. This is not true. Clippings that remain on the lawn quickly decompose and release valuable nutrients and beneficial bacteria that actually feed on the thatch layer. If clippings are left on the lawn, you may be able to reduce your use of fertilizer by 20 to 30%. The shorter the clippings, the deeper they fall into the turf and the faster they are recycled into the nutrients for your lawn. Mowing your lawn high will also enhance the turnover of the clippings.
The use of a mulching mower and/or frequent mowing will produce the smallest clippings. If you don’t have a mulching mower, consider mowing your lawn twice at one time. This will further reduce the size of the clippings and distribute them deeper into the lawn. Mowing when the grass is dry and fertilizing properly will also help to prevent an excess buildup of thatch.
On the other hand, bagging your clippings and adding them to your compost pile for mulching and amending your mineral based soil is an excellent gardening tool too. Because they break down relatively fast, grass clippings are highly regarded by those who compost for improved soil. Thus, a kind of dilemma is created but the good news is that either usage (mulched for your lawn or added to your compost) demonstrates the value of grass clippings.
Check out this research. Results from the tests showed a positive linear association between the density of trees and the self-reported recovery from stress. That is, the more trees the subjects saw, the faster their stress levels dropped. – See more at: http://www.totallandscapecare.com/university-study-stress-trees-increases/#sthash.avKKpsKm.dpuf. The Truckee Meadows lags way behind in relevant tree canopy … much less than most western cities INCLUDING LAS VEGAS!
And Value Too … How Much are Those Trees Worth? $1 Billion
Many cities are starting to get a better idea of how much their street trees are really worth—not the cost of purchasing them but the actual value of their ecosystem services.
A recent publication in Urban Forestry & Urban Greening compiled tree inventory data for 50 cities in California. They found that the 9.1 million trees they assessed provide annual services valued at $1 billion (that’s $110.63 per tree). Their asset value was $2.49 billion. When you figure that the annual cost of management for each tree is $19, it turns out those cities get $5.82 in benefits for every dollar spent.
The study also found that there were 16 million vacant planting sites. More trees? Please.
Garden to Lose Weight
Trying to lose weight before swimsuit season is officially here?
Researchers from Konkuk University and Hongik University in Seoul, South Korea, suggest gardening. Why? Because it’s just like going to the gym.
Turning compost is like lifting weights, raking is like using the rowing machine and pushing a mower is like walking on a treadmill, they say.
In fact, in measuring 10 gardening tasks against gym favorites, their research showed similar calorie burns.
The researchers classified planting transplants, mixing growing medium, watering, harvesting, sowing, hoeing, mulching, raking and weeding as moderate-intensity activities and digging as a high-intensity activity.
- Good bug (ladybug) eating bad bug (aphids)
OK … you see some damage to your plants leaves but how do you identify what bad bug it is? Once you have identified it, treatment is a “read the label” away or “ask us” at our garden centers. The key is identifying the damage and offending bad insect. And, for that, you need to understand the three main types of bad bugs – – chewing, rasping and sucking insects?
The mouthparts of insects have adapted over time to suit the feeding style of each type of insect. Mouth parts differ from insect to insect, so the damage that they cause is useful in the classification and identification of the pest. Differentiating the type of insect damage will help you determine how to control the pest.
A chewing insect is any insect that has teeth. Most winged chewing insects (such as beetles, caterpillars and grasshoppers) feed only on leaf tissue, working from the leaf edge towards the center and eventually to the leaf stem. Crawling chewing insects, such as cutworms, will also eat roots and even stems of small plants.
Rasping insects (such as mites, snails, slugs and thrips) actually scrape off the surface of the leaves as sandpaper would. They suck up the fluids from the top layer of cells until all the green tissue has been consumed, leaving only the skeleton behind.
Sucking insects (such as aphids and whiteflies) have slender mouth parts with which they pierce leaves and stems to suck out plant fluids. Large populations can cause curling, yellowing and distortion of leaves, as well as stunting of shoots. Most sucking insects also produce large quantities of a sticky substance known as honeydew, which often turns black with the growth of a sooty mold fungus.
If you’re not sure what type of insect is attacking your plant, just bring in a sample and one of our nursery experts will recommend a remedy to help your plant. But, now, you can identify the offender yourself because you know the difference between the chewers, raspers and suckers!
High Desert Variegations
William Cowper once wrote the now famous words, “Variety is the spice of life.” This couldn’t be truer in the garden. Nothing spices up a garden like plants with variegated foliage. Use too many and they’ll make you dizzy. But placed in the background or strategically planted in the midst of the garden, variegated foliage can bring out the best in all of your plants.
Variegated plants come in a myriad of shapes and shades. From bold to subtle, there’s something for every gardener’s personal tastes. If it’s a tree you’re looking for, nothing steals the show like the ‘Flamingo’ box elder. It can be the centerpiece to build your entire garden around.
Many variegated plants make excellent hedges. Instead of hiding in the background, they provide a great starting point to planning a garden. Consider variegated English boxwood, ‘Red Twig’ dogwood, ‘Gilt Edge’ silverberry, euonymus, variegated English holly, variegated kohuhu, variegated mock orange, dappled willow or weigela. Many of these plants also look wonderful when planted individually to bring out a corner or become a focal point on a mound or garden island.
If a hedge is not your cup of tea but you still want to hide some of your fence line, a variegated bower vine or variegated potato vine will do an excellent job. For bursts of color and interest throughout your garden, consider variegated varieties of abelias, daylilies, licorice plants, phlox, mock orange, sage, stonecrop, weigela, New Zealand flax and ornamental grasses.
If your garden has shaded areas, don’t worry. There are many great selections for areas with less sunlight. Many popular variegated plants prefer shade or partial shade.
No matter what your garden setting is, variegated plants not only look great but also add interest. We have a large selection of plants with unique foliage and variegated colors. Stop by soon and see the beauty of these plants in person. You won’t be able to resist them!
|If you are a berry lover, you can’t possibly have a garden without dedicating a space to grow delicious homegrown strawberries. Some people even go as far as saying they are the best of all the berries. What is unique about the strawberry (actually a member of the rose family) is that it is the only fruit with seeds on the outside rather than the inside.The delicate but great-tasting heart-shaped berry has always been associated with love, passion, purity, and healing. Legend has it that if you break a double strawberry in half and share it with a member of the opposite sex, you will fall in love with each other.
And speaking of legends and folklore, locals in some parts of Bavaria still practice the annual rite–each spring–of tying small baskets of wild strawberries to the horns of their cattle as an offering to the elves. They believe that the elves, (who are known to be passionately fond of strawberries–what good taste they have), will help to produce healthy calves and an abundance of milk in return.
Strawberries are also prized for their medicinal purposes and health attributes. Ounce for ounce, strawberries have more Vitamin C than citrus fruit and have been associated with lowering cholesterol, easing symptoms of gout and digestion problems and lowering the risk of certain types of cancer.
Strawberries are generally divided into three groups: spring bearing, everbearing, and day-neutral. The fruits of day-neutral plants and everbearers are usually smaller than the fruits of the spring-bearers. Spring bearing strawberries generally produce a crop during a 2-4 week period in the spring. Ever-bearing strawberries produce three periods of flowers and fruit during the spring, summer, and fall–while day neutral strawberries will produce fruit throughout the growing season.
Strawberries prefer the sun but do tolerate some shade. They can be used as an edging plant or a groundcover. Their major requirement is good drainage, so they’ll benefit from being planted in mounded soil, terraced beds, barrels or other types of containers. They can be grown indoors, even, in a sunny window or with supplemental lighting, which makes them a great candidate for starting indoors in cold areas.
We invite you to discover the sensational flavor of homegrown strawberries!
Strawberry Planting and Care Instructions
Be sure to plant strawberry starts with their crown just above the soil level. Use a good soil amendment to help them get going well. We recommend spacing outdoor plants 12″ apart. Remove all flowers the first two months to help with rooting and then remove runners so that the plant can put its energy into producing fruit.
Placing plastic sheeting underneath the foliage will help keep the soil warm and weed-free. It also deters slugs, snails and other crawling insects from feeding on foliage and berries. Water bedding plants using drip irrigation or by flooding trenches between the mounds or terraces. Water plants in containers under the leaves. Keep them healthy during the fruiting season by feeding with a fertilizer which is low in nitrogen and will promote more bud growth and fruit.
Landscapes Boost Learning
A new study of high school students in central Illinois found students with a view of trees were able to recover their ability to pay attention and bounce back from stress more rapidly than those who looked out on a parking lot or had no windows.
The researchers, William Sullivan, professor of landscape architecture at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, and Dongying Li, a PhD student at the university, reported their findings in the Landscape and Urban Planning journal.
“Schools surrounding landscapes have ben too long overlooked for their impact on learning, and it’s time to understand what campus greenery—or lack thereof—means for student performance,” the researchers agree.
“Green views produced better attentional functioning and stress recovery,” they explain. “Furthermore, viewing nature helps both cognition and stress recovery, but through separate mental pathways. In other words, nature’s ability to help us recover our ability to pay attention has nothing to do with whether we are stressed out or not, but nature, separately, also helps us recover from stress.”
Read more of the study here: https://aslathedirt.files.wordpress.com/2016/01/li-sullivan.pdf.
Reading a bag of plant fertilizer can be frustrating. What is that secret code? Most people, especially those new to gardening, are not sure what to make of “NPK” or the three numbers that appear on every bag – but seem to be different on every bag. We’ve all been there. At Moana Nursery we want to make it easy for you to grow beautiful, healthy plants and we believe that the proper use of fertilizers to build better soil is vital. Here’s a quick guide to what is in a bag of fertilizer and some of the benefits of regularly feeding our High Desert soil with a premium fertilizer.
When you look at a bag of fertilizer, whether for indoor or outdoor plants, you will always see three numbers such as the 3-5-2 formulation of G&B Organics Starter fertilizer. These numbers represent the three main substances, or macronutrients, that all plants need for healthy growth. These macronutrients will be provided in different amounts depending on the purpose of the fertilizer you are looking at.
The first number is nitrogen (N). Nitrogen is necessary for leaf growth and health and a nutrient most often lacking in garden soils. Lawns are made up of millions of leaves so they respond well to fertilizers with higher nitrogen.
The second number is phosphorus (P). Phosphorus aids in flower and root development and it helps promote fruiting. Roses and fruit trees are examples of plants that will thrive when fed with phosphorous.
The third number is potassium (K). Plants use potassium for stem and root development and this nutrient also helps make plants more resistant to disease and bolsters heat and cold tolerance. All plants will produce stronger stems and roots when potassium is provided.
Many fertilizers also list secondary ingredients. Calcium helps in the formation and growth of cells. Magnesium helps build chlorophyll molecules which help plants convert the energy from sunlight into food. Sulfur is also sometimes listed on fertilizer labels. It works with nitrogen to maintain healthy plant cells.
Other nutrients often included in fertilizers are sometimes called trace elements or micronutrients. Zinc and manganese help make other nutrients available to plants while iron helps build chlorophyll resulting in healthy, colorful leaves and stems.
Another category of ingredients becoming more common in high quality fertilizers includes beneficial soil microbes and mycorrhizae. These microscopic living organisms contribute greatly to soil health, disease resistance and overall plant vigor.
Moana Nursery recommends G&B Organics brand fertilizers because they are an organic, scientifically blended source of all the important elements, including mighty microbes, that promote plant health by feeding, building and permanently improving our lean High Desert soils. G&B Organics takes the guesswork out of choosing fertilizers by providing plant-specific formulas. Whether you are growing vegetables, fruit trees, roses, flowering plants, shrubs or trees, G&B Organics has a purpose blended, easy-to-use and long lasting fertilizer that will help you grow beautiful plants.
Moana Nursery believes in making gardening success easy to achieve. That is why we promote creating healthy soil through proper fertilization with every plant we sell. We love gardening in Northern Nevada and want to share our passion for growing beautiful plants with you. Come visit any of our stores to learn how easy it can be!
As homes continue to be built larger and garden space becomes smaller, fewer homeowners have the space to plant as many fruit trees. But that doesn’t mean you have to go without the fresh taste of homegrown fruit.
The objective behind this gardening concept is to allow for a prolonged harvest of tree-ripe fruit from a small space. This can be accomplished by planting multi-grafted fruit trees, planting two or more trees with different ripening dates in the same hole, or by espaliering fruit trees along a sunny house wall or fence line.
By using multi-graft trees or planting more trees in one hole, a homeowner can now extend a 3-4 week harvest season into 10-12 weeks of different flavors. Planting or creating espaliers along a fence line can also free up valuable garden space for more fruit trees or other ornamental plants.
Close planting also offers the additional benefit of reducing the size of the tree’s crown, making the overall tree size more manageable. Close planting also can create an environment for better cross-pollination, which also leads to increased fruit production.
Most types of fruit trees need to be pruned each year to stimulate new fruiting wood, remove dead and diseased branches, or to allow more sunlight between the branches to help fruit ripen better and more evenly. If you start pruning consistently when your trees are young, it will be much easier to keep the tree at a manageable or desirable height.
At the heart of small yard orchard planning is the concept of summer pruning. By pruning at the same time you are thinning your crops, you will be better able to distinguish the kind of wood on which the tree sets fruit. You won’t accidentally prune off any fruit because you can see it, and the new growth is always above or beyond the fruit.
Reducing the size of the tree canopy will in turn reduce the photosynthesis (food manufacture) of the tree. This helps to limit the amount of food materials and energy available for the roots to store, which in turn will control the tree’s capability to produce as much new growth the rest of summer or the following spring. Summer pruning also reduces the amount of new growth the tree produces for the rest of the season, again keeping the tree to a more manageable size.
Pruning for size control in the summer will reduce your pruning chores in winter. Once the leaves fall off, you will have a better opportunity to prune for branch spacing and overall shaping of your trees. To create an espalier tree, simply prune off anything that doesn’t grow flat. Then selectively thin and train what’s left to space the fruiting wood. You can espalier most fruit trees, but apples and pears lend themselves to this type of pruning better than other varieties.
Smaller fruit trees can be much more manageable to spray, prune, and harvest than large trees. So, take a new look at your garden and you might be surprised at the possibilities you have for growing fruit trees. Then close your eyes and think about how great the fruit from those trees will taste!
In most instances, xeriscape principles and landscape best practices are one and the same thing.
Let’s take a brief look at xeriscaping (what it is and what it isn’t) to dispel misconceptions that have dogged the concept since the Denver Water Co. formulated it more than 30 years ago. The city’s water agency correctly anticipated the rapid growth of its region but also realized that its water resources are finite. The water agency chose the name xeriscaping (xeros is the Greek word for dry) because Colorado’s Front Range, of which Denver is a part, is semi-arid and receives, on average, just 14 inches of precipitation annually. Denver Water Co. felt the region could not sustain its precious water resources if property owners there insisted upon installing and maintaining landscapes better suited for wetter regions of the country.
Since that launch, cities across the U.S., including some in the Midwest and Northeast, developed xeriscape councils and began educating property owners on the movement’s water-conserving principles.
Here are xeriscaping’s seven big rules to ensure installations provide the benefits, including less maintenance, water and other inputs needed after establishment.
1. DESIGN. When designing a landscape, take into account factors such as climate, shade and sun, the contour of the property (slopes, depressions, etc.), soil types, watering requirements for ornamentals and turf grass, and any local regulations that apply.
2. SOIL. Match plants with the types of soils best suited for the plants’ survival and health. Test the soil and add nutrients and organic matter, such as compost, to promote plant health and also to retain water. Grade the soil to direct any excess rain or irrigation water to plants that would appreciate the moisture rather than having it lost to runoff. Some desert plants prefer gravel soils instead of soils rich in organics.
3. LIMITED TURF AREAS. Xeriscaping doesn’t mean “no lawns,” but it does advocate installing and maintaining lawns only where they serve a purpose and will be used, such as where children and pets play. Avoid grassing these sites with species or cultivars of turf grass that require frequent irrigation. In terms of species, a lawn of a native species, such as buffalo grass, requires significantly less irrigation than Kentucky bluegrass. In general, a warm-season turf grass, such as Bermuda grass, is more drought-resistant than most cool-season turf grasses. Many varieties of fescues (turf-type tall fescues and hard fescues) do well with limited irrigation. Better options for lawn areas may be native ground covers or other drought-tolerant plants.
4. PLANTS. Remember the adage “The Right Plant In The Right Place.” Proper plant selection and placement within a landscape is critically important to the success and enjoyment of the landscape. Group plants with similar light and water requirements and put them in locations that meet those requirements. Turf grass, of course, does best in full sun and will require more water than perennial beds that are also in full sun. Plants with moderate water needs are generally best suited for shaded areas or areas near downspouts, while water-loving plants thrive in damp swales or water-collecting depressions on a property.
5. IRRIGATION. Some people’s conception of a xeriscape landscape is one that requires no supplemental irrigation. In most cases, that would be a stark landscape and one that few property owners would appreciate. The better option is to provide the property with an automatic irrigation system with the latest “smart” features that irrigate the property in zones. For example, areas of turf grass require more frequent watering than areas of native or regionally adapted ornamentals, shrubs and trees, which should be watered with drip or bubbler emitters.
6. MULCH. Mulch serves several purposes on a xeriscape. Mulch moderates the soil temperature on plant roots and helps to retain soil moisture, blocks weed growth and reduces rain runoff. Apply mulch about 3 inches deep. Organic mulches, such as compost, bark chips, pine straw or shredded wood, break down, which improves the soil over time.
7. MAINTENANCE. Xeriscapes require maintenance, especially during establishment. In fact, all commercial and residential landscapes require an appropriate level of ongoing care. A landscape, including a xeriscape, that does not receive ongoing maintenance morphs into a mess. Turf grass requires regular mowing (3 inches high, leave clippings on the lawn), and trees, shrubs and perennials need periodic pruning.