General Information:
Amaryllis are popular flowering bulbs which are grown for their
spectacular bloom during the winter months.
Bulbs can be purchased both in pre-planted pots or unpotted. The unpotted bulbs usually cost less and the
potting procedure is simple. All that is
needed are well-drained potting soil and a suitable container.
Amaryllis bulbs should be planted in pots which are
approximately one to two inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. Containers may be plastic or clay but should
have drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
Add a small amount of potting soil to the bottom of the pot; center the
bulb in the middle of the pot. Firming
it around the roots and bulb, add additional potting soil. When finished potting, the upper one-half to
two-thirds of the bulb should remain above the soil surface. Leave about one inch between the soil surface
and the pot’s rim.
Water well and place it in a cool (60°F), low light location. Water sparingly until growth appears. When growth begins, water more frequently and
move the plant to a warm, sunny window.
Apply a water-soluble fertilizer every two to four weeks. Pot bulbs in early November for blooming
during the Christmas holidays.
Flowering normally occurs about four to six weeks
after potting. A large, top grade bulb
should produce two flower stalks with four flowers on each stem. The individual flowers may be six to eight inches
in diameter. Excellent varieties
include: ‘Red Lion’ – deep crimson red, ‘White Christmas’ – snow white, ‘Prince
Carnival’ – white with red stripes, ‘Minerva’ – red with white star, and
‘Picotee’ –white with red edges.
·
Remove dead flowers promptly.
·
Place the plant in direct sunlight.
·
Keep leaves actively growing during the summer.
·
In late summer, withhold water until the leaves die.
·
After the leaves die, store the potted bulb in a cool location (45-50°F at night).
·
After two to three months, repot with new potting mix, resume watering
and move the plant to low light. Flower
buds will appear in a few weeks.
*According to the University
of Illinois Horticultural Extension.