Successful Gardening
at Double Diamond
Fact Sheet - IF9
1100 W. Moana Ln., Reno, NV 89509 11301 So. Virginia St., Reno, NV 89511
Key Points:
·
Boron vs. soluble salts and sodium
·
Soil conditioning
·
Raised beds
·
Water management
·
Plant selection
Some of the most difficult growing conditions
imaginable are found in the Double Diamond area. These conditions exist along
the east side of the Truckee Meadows south of the Double Diamond area and
extend north through the Spanish Springs area.
The causes of these adverse conditions include restricted drainage and
often a high water table carrying dissolved salts and boron.
Soil tests indicate toxic levels of soluble salts
and boron exist throughout the area.
However, the REAL problem is
the presence of sodium which compounds existing drainage problems. Boron and salts can be leached out IF drainage can be improved. Soils are very fine, similar to talcum
powder, thus water moves very slowly through these soils, if at all. Water
ponding and runoff occur in a very short time, often as soon as five minutes
after irrigation has begun.
The first step in soil condition is
a soil test to determine levels of boron, soluble salts and sodium. The next step lies in soil conditioning to
improve the drainage and maybe even installing drainage pipes. The new homeowner needs to increase drainage
as deep as possible and replace the sodium that is tied to the soil. The other soluble salts and boron can be
leached downward. This may not be as
easy as it sounds as drainage is restricted for several feet down and is also
affected by a high water table. As this
water table rises during a wet spring, salts, including sodium, are
re-deposited at the surface when the water table recedes.
During wet springs the salts will rise through any new topsoil that has been used, contaminating it as well.
Depending upon the soil test and sodium results, the
reclamation may be started by the addition of 50 to 100 pounds of gypsum per
1000 sq. feet. The gypsum should be
worked into the soil as deeply as possible, 6”-8” minimum. This will help release the sodium from the
soil particles so they can be leached downward. Gypsum needs to be added to the
lawn area especially, as once the lawn is in you will not be able to
effectively condition the soil again.
Ideally, gypsum should be added and tilled in BEFORE adding any topsoil.
Add half of the topsoil needed, 1 ½”- 2” of organic matter and rototill
again. Some artificial drainage using
perforated pipe at this time is strongly recommended. Establish the rough grade and add the final
half of the topsoil. Do not rototill this last time. This blending of gypsum,
organic material and topsoil will help prevent the creation of any interfaces
or abrupt texture changes and allow water to infiltrate into the lower profiles
more easily and rapidly. This will also
encourage deeper turf rooting. Use
gypsum and organic material wherever you intend to plant, ideally over the
entire yard or shrub/tree bed.
The next step is proper
planting. This is a very critical
factor. Prepare the planting hole as
wide a you have energy for but a minimum of 3 times the diameter of the root
ball --5 times would be better (Fig. 1).
The root ball should be only deep enough to enable the root ball to sit
on firm, undisturbed soil.

This
depth should place the root ball at the same depth as it was before or even up
to one inch higher. It is highly
recommended that the outer, bottom edge of the hole be dug 6”-8” deeper and
sloped upward toward the center plateau (Fig. 1). Soil removed from the hole should be
conditioned with equal parts of soil, organic matter and gypsum. Use your shovel for a measuring tool. Mix very thoroughly and backfill in the hole,
and water when the hole is ¾ full. Do
not place rock or gravel in the bottom of the hole to “aid drainage.” Water simply will perch or sit on the
rock-soil interface. For perennials,
ground covers, flower beds and vegetable gardens, rototill 50-100 pounds of
gypsum per 1000 sq. feet as well as 4”-6” of organic matter into the soil 6”-8”
deep and over the entire area. You may
also consider using raised beds for some planting.
You may consider raised beds for planting. They allow plants to develop in good topsoil or triple mix soil above the native Double Diamond soil. Beds may be constructed of wood, rock, brick or keystone blocks and should be minimum of 18” high. Put a cap on top for extra seating.
Soil conditioning is the key for
plant survival but proper watering is also vital. Keep in mind at all times DRAINAGE IS
RESTRICTED. Water will move very slowly
through the soil and watering too much, too fast, is a common cause of ponding,
runoff, waterlogged soil and drowned plants.
In turf areas apply water slowly and for short
periods of time, usually 5 minutes or less.
Stop watering and wait until all the stations on the controller have
cycled for about 30 minutes minimum and rewater. Do this several times on your watering days
until moisture has reached 6”-8” deep.
Check your soils with a trowel or shovel before and after you water to
see how deep the water has infiltrated and what is remaining from the previous
irrigation. It would probably be best to
record the times for future controller settings. Remember that most sprinklers and sprinkler
systems apply water much faster than the soil can absorb it, especially spray
nozzles.
Drip irrigation is recommended for several reasons
but must be monitored as well to avoid salt accumulations around the high
points of berms, etc. A monthly overhead
watering with a hose and sprinkler over the entire planting area is recommended
to leach the accumulated salts down.
Plant selection is another key to
the puzzle of successful gardening.
Plants that are salt tolerant and drought resistant should be used. The plants on the following list are generally
recommended for planting in Double Diamond area. There may be some on the list that won’t grow
in your specific microclimate and some, not listed, that will grow. The list is intended as a guide only. The trees only are listed in order of most tolerant
to least.
I.
Trees
·
Idaho Locust Robinia ambigua ‘Idahoensis’
·
Flowering Crabapple Malus species
·
Purple-leaf Plum Prunus cerasifera ‘Atropurpurea’
·
Thornless Honeylocust Gleditsia triacanthos
·
Raywood Ash Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’
·
Bradford Pear Pyrus calleryana
·
Common Hackberry Celtus occidentalis
·
Bur Oak Quercus macrocarpa
·
Goldenrain Tree Koelreuteria paniculata
·
Amur Maple Acer tataricum ‘Ginnala’
·
Trident Maple Acer buergeranum
·
English Oak (pyramidal) Quercus robur fastigiata
·
Blue Ash Fraxinus quadrangulata
·
Norway Maple Acer platanoides
·
Sycamore Platanus occidentalis
·
European Hornbeam Carpinus betulus
·
Hawthorne Crataegus species
II.
Evergreen Trees
·
Rocky Mountain Juniper Juniperus scopulorum
·
Pinon Pine Pinus edulis
·
Austrian Pine Pinus nigra
·
Scotch Pine Pinus sylvestris
·
Arizona Cypress Cupressus
arizonica
·
Atlas Cedar Cedrus atlantica
·
Incense Cedar Calocedrus decurrens
·
Bristlecone Pine Pinus aristata
The following shrubs and perennials need water in
order to properly get established, followed by less irrigation as they mature.
III.
Shrubs
·
Peashrubs Caragana
arborescens
·
Flowering Quince Chaenomeles species
·
Butterfly Bush Buddleia species
·
Smoke Tree Cotinus coggygria
·
Cotoneasters (all) Cotoneaster species
·
Scotch Broom (all) Cytisus scoparius
·
Silverberry Elaeagnus commutata
·
Burning Bush Euonymus alatus ‘Compacta’
·
Juniper (most varieties) Juniperus species
·
Beauty Bush Kolkwitzia amabilis
·
Privet (all) Ligustrum species
·
Mock Orange Philadelphus coronarius x virginalis
·
Mugo Pine Pinus
mugo
·
Arborvitae Thuja species
·
Potentilla Potentilla fruticosa
·
Pyracantha Pyracantha coccinea
·
Sumac Rhus species
·
Arctic Willow Salix purpurea
· Apache Plume Fallugia paradoxa
·
Yarrow Achillea millefolium
·
Basket of Gold Aurinia saxatilis
·
Rock Cress Arabis species
·
Sea Pink Armeria maritima
·
Snow-in-Summer Cerastium tomentosum
·
Mock Strawberry Fragaria species
·
Lambs Ear Stachys byzantina
·
Mother of Thyme Thymus serpyllum
·
Veronica Veronica species
·
Ajuga (some) Ajuga species
·
Periwinkle Vinca species
·
Kinnickinick Arctostaphylos uva-ursi
·
Horizontal Cotoneaster (all) Cotoneaster species
·
Genista Genista lydia
·
Halls Honeysuckle Lonicera halliana
·
Mahonia Creeping Mahonia repens
·
Bishop’s Weed (dense shade) Aegopodium podagraria
·
Daylilies Hemerocallis species
·
Gaura Gaura lindheimeri
·
Ornamental grasses Various
species